This is a custom-flashed chip from Tuya that actually does all the work in this switch. They are just signaling devices to the MCU.į - the ON/OFF switch backlight. It sends a signal to the MCU.Į - the dimmer up/down switches. Controlled by the MCU.ĭ - the ON/OFF switch. We will not be doing ANYTHING with any other component on this board.Ĭ - the dimmer level LEDS (green). The rest of the labeling is just for your education. In fact we are not going to use those pad until testing later.
FEIT SMART PLUG SERIAL
TX - The TRANSMIT side of the serial communications FROM the ESP TO your flash connection.RX - The RECEIVE side of the serial (UART) communications TO the ESP FROM your flash connection.Ground - common to the whole board (and NOT connected to AC common or Earth Ground).VCC - 3V3 (Positive 3.3 VDC) power to run the chip.They are in fact connected to 4 of the 6 pads that are soldered down across the front of the board. This is where our ESPHome firmware will all live and where any customization will happen.ī - these four holes are test pads that could be used to re-program the ESP chip. The wifi radio, cpu, flash memory, and input/output circuitry is all inside that metal shield. Discussion can then continue with reference to POST#2, 3, 4, 5, or 6Ī - this is the Tuya TYWE2S (ESP8285) wifi/microprocessor module. The first 5 posts in this thread will be the steps. Since it is intended to be a detailed guide, each step will be a new post. Disassembly and prep for de-soldering work.This Step-by-Step DIY guide will break the process down into 5 areas: If you prefer to go the Tasmota route, follow the hardware guide until it is time to flash the chip… and then start your own NEWBIE thread!
FEIT SMART PLUG CODE
There will be code examples in subsequent posts to make this device work within HA and using ESPHome. NOTE - this guide is going to presume you will use ESPHome as an Integration within Home Assistant. No warranty (please don’t bork a PCB, reassemble it and take it back to Costco claiming "it doesn’t work…) and no support other than “asking the internet” and hoping people will be kind enough to guide you through the steps to fix it. But it goes without saying, you now own it fully. NOTE - this process will liberate your device from the “tyranny” of manufacturer’s cloud controller and allow you to integrate it into your own automation solution. (This is a NEWBIE thread - so for those who want to say it is no big deal - I refer you to the thread title! ) If you are reasonably talented with a soldering iron, you can get this chip off the board without destroying it - but it will not be easy.
NOTE - Ideally you would have a SMD re-work station like these. If you are unwilling to potentially sacrifice one of your switches (or two) as a learning experiment - TURN BACK! If you destroy the pads and/or traces on the Tuya board, it is pretty much game over unless you want to source a new TYWE2S from China or try to hack in another ESP8266-based board into the switch. Too much pressure or heat can permanently destroy components on that board and render the entire switch useless. It “floats” and even touching a low power trace on the DC side could result in a deadly electrical shock if you are sufficiently “connected” to ground or common wiring on the mains side while connected to 120VAC Mains.ĬAUTION - this project involves delicate and tedious de-soldering of printed circuit board components. WARNING - if you ignored the first warning, realize that the low power (5/3.3V power supply) within this device is not isolated from the 120VAC side. This is what the author did - not what you should do. The author of this thread assumes no responsibility for your personal safety should you decide to follow the process being documented. Don’t even consider removing the first screw if you do not understand the shock risk involved. Electrocution is a real possibility if you connect your device to your AC main power while it is open. WARNING - you will be dis-assembling a device intended to be connected to 120V mains. If you have old switches (pre-mid2020), you should first try Tuya-Convert because that will be MUCH simpler than these steps.īefore we get started with the step by steps, a few WARNINGS, CAUTIONS and NOTES As the original COSTO FEIT Wifi Dimmer thread has become quite long and has many branches of topics, this thread will attempt to capture the basics of converting these Tuya-based switches for those that can no longer use the exploit that Tuya-Convert used.
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